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Local time: All day

Right hander at Jaws

Another XXL-Size Swell hit the Hawaiian Islands this Morning. The Swell peaked at 17Sec 24feet and the conditions a Pe’ahi were as good as it gets: morning glass and 40-6-feet waves (depending who you talk to) that was the situation out there. On the cliff the situation was a little different, the parking situation was out of hand and the crowds came down to the bluff by the hundreds. There were Hotdog stands and soda vendors. More people went to Circus Jawas than to the county fair last year.

Gute Zuschauerzahlen

The show down in the ocean could not have been better, all the “Big Hitters” were out there including the 16 year old Kai Lenny who already is a regular at Jaws. The drama was unfolding when Laird Hamilton took a tumble on a wave and got hit by his own board that dislocated his shoulder. According to the gossip on the cliff, he then surfed two more waves. A bit later local Big Wave Legend, SUP pioneer and Maui County Lifeguard Chief, Archie Kelapa broke his leg while getting washed in the white water. He and Laird Hamilton shared a ride on the helicopter getting airlifted out of the break. Kai Lenny took his first serious wipe out on the left at Jaws and sits at home now with a serious headache. This winter already had some epic days at Jaws but this one was by far the most dramatic one.

Monster Left

Showing teeth

At the same time the locals at Honolua Bay, which turned into a big wave spot it self, were charging some hellish rides themselves. The sets at the cave were in the solid 6-8+ range. Due to the lack of trade winds the wave was not as clean as many hoped. The rides were still sick and as the next pictures prove there was tons of love to spread by the locals. I am sure the guy under the lip was not feeling much love getting burned like that.

We definitely had enough action for one day that is for sure, the action shall continue tomorrow.

Morgen bitte etws freundlicher.

There is so much action going on right now I don’t even know where to start. Jaws had some of the best days in years, at the same time The Eddie was going on, and the girls Billabong Pro Maui was going on in perfect conditions at Honolua Bay.

On thing is for sure: I have colleted more and better video material this November/December than in all winter combined last year.

Local time: all day

Early morning set

Jaws had one of its best days in  a long time despite the swell was not as big as anticipated. According to the Media we were preparing fort he largest swell since 1969. The buoy readings are still running at plus minus 17 Seconds 18 Feet, which is still big, but now where near the swell I witnessed on new years day of 1999 with readings of 20 Seconds 30 Feet.

Never the less, Jaws was open for business today and the world elite of Big Wave Surfing was out there. By 9.00am I counted somewhat 25 Jet skis, 5 Boats and 3 Helicopters hovering over the break. There were some massive sets coming through and guys were scoring some good rides on the right as well as on the left. I also saw guys going over the falls and 2 Jet skies ending up on the rocks.

Off course I am also woring on a video to release soon, for now enjoy these pictures.

Bis Bald,

Mike

Local time: 11.30hours

The surf is up, up and up here in the islands. The start of the O’Neil Worldcup had to be postponed due to high surf. In fact we were under a high surf warning today. Sunset on O’ahu was closing out at 18 – 20feet and Jaws received sets in the 15-25 feet range and Honolua had the biggest day in years with the bigger sets in the 7-9feet range. (all Hawaiian measurements)

We have no complaints this November, this ist he best early season I can think of so far. I never seen Pe’ahi breaking as early as on Thanksgiving. It was not a macking day, but considerably big, there were only 3 skies out and it seemed some of the Local Boys had fun towing in.

The evening session at Honolua Bay was a party in it self. Guys were riding barrels you could drive a truck through. It was also considerably crowded and numerous rain showers made the visibility bad to take pictures.

There will be definitely more video to come, but now I have to finish up the footage from  Hale’iwa.

Jetz aber vorwärts!

Mike